A Night Out to Celebrate 20% or 39/195
Let’s not focus too much on that denominator, I just took the count from the United Nations. Not making any statements there.
Oman is my 39th country. But when looking at the map… it’s a bit disappointing. Only one South America, one Africa (though it will be two next week), and none in Oceania. I need to dedicate more travel in their direction. This does harken back the adage of, “When you’re young, you have time and health, but no money. As you age you gain money, still have health, but don’t have time. And then in your older age you have money and time, but not health.” I’ve always viewed that first stage’s pinnacle as the year I spent abroad in Russia. Backpacking (albeit I am traveling with a backpack now) and bootstrapping it through hostels in Europe. The classic youthful solution to having less money. Now I try hard to create more time. Sleep less, work remote, do more. Though my knees and back are certainly becoming more of an issue…
Kuwait
I don’t have too much to say about Kuwait, let’s be honest, I swung by the country just to check it off. It reminded me of the UAE or Qatar, just a bit poorer and more aged. Interestingly though, Kuwait actually has more oil reserves than either of those countries, so they’re just less glitzy about it? Or maybe the others have spent more of it? Or they’ve diversified more away from it? For a guy reading a book currently called The Looting Machine and it’s all about the corrupt economics of resource nations, I have a surprising lack of understanding of the mechanics.
The weather was hazy and the traffic bad, so I didn’t explore too far, but I did get some good food. Had to try their national dishes of Gabout and Machboos Laham. I ordered way too much, clearly these portions are designed to share. I’ve never particularly agreed with the classic saying that portions in America are exorbitantly large. I’ve seen portions everywhere else be huge too. The world just loves food. Also after being stuck in a cramped cruise ship cabin, having a large one bedroom apartment to myself was pretty great.
Oman
The Muscat airport is obviously new and not as busy, but it’s one of the nicest ones I’ve been in. It is a rarity for an airport to have a lot of lounge furniture, creating a warmer environment rather than a hostile uncomfortable one. It has rock gardens galore, smells nice, and has a very comfy and quiet lounge. I’m also a huge fan of the Islamic trend of geometric patterns / shapes in their architectural design, creating very peaceful tessellations.
I always say that people make the trip, not the destination. I’ve been on a fair number of solo trips, and while I suggest it to everyone (acknowledging that it is far easier for a man than a woman), even then the majority of the most memorable experiences are with strangers or locals who add flavor to the journey. Classic stories like the Germans in Hungary or the Poles in France are because I went solo, and latched onto others. My classmate and friend Tejaswini, who is from Oman and happened to be in town at the last minute, gathered some friends and we went out for dinner and drinks. Melanie and Dylan were very friendly and all three of them were excellent hosts. Definitely one of the more memorable experiences on this trip as they drove me around Muscat. It should also be noted that Omani’s go out late. It’s probably due to the heat, but at 1-2 AM on a Wednesday evening, many clusters of cars could be found in parking lots, gas stations, side roads, etc. with a bunch of people (mostly men) with folding chairs, hanging out. Presumably smoking, maybe even drinking, it was unclear. But I was startled by how many random groups there were doing this.
Muscat, like most of the cities here, lies along the ocean. Narrowly built against the mountains on the interior, it’s a sprawling car-driven city, exasperated more by a law by their former king who was a big environmentalist, and wanted people to always view the mountains. I spent a couple mornings hanging out in the warm shallow water. Learning what lugworms are and reading more about resource economies and income inequality. There were plenty of fish in the ocean, but an interaction with nature I always like is walking through a tree that is chock full of birds, and the deafening din of their chirping in a luscious tree can always stop me in my tracks and breathe deeply at the tranquility.
When we went out for dinner, they took me to a couple of the many many food trucks that line empty plots of land around the city. Often with burgers (though seasoned and handmade very different than an American burger), mishkak (sorta like kebabs on a stick), and fries. This meal will run you less than $5 USD and is pretty solid. It reminds me of the American Drive In culture of the 50’s and 60’s. With cars pulling over everywhere ordering from their window, chaos pulling in and out of the streets to these lots, and just eating in their vehicle.
From my limited experience, there seems to be some sort of burgeoning music scene here. Not only is Melanie in a band, but my hotel’s restaurant, The Rock Bottom Cafe, also put on live music between World Cup matches. And honestly, they' were pretty darn good. With a fantastic rendition of Georgia on My Mind, assuming they were referencing Warnock’s win yesterday.
Tejaswini, Melanie, and Dylan took me to the Dolphin Club, which is an international outdoor bar lounge scene. I was surprised by how diverse it is. Like most things in the Middle East, there seems to be a huge Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell mentality. If they hide the sins (or haram as I learned it’s called in Islam) and keep it out from the public eye, even though everyone knows where it is and how to get it. Not my cup of tea in particular, I don’t like pretending I’m not who I am, but I’m particularly difficult. For the international and gay crowd, it seemed like just a way of life. Tolerated, as long as you never flaunt it (albeit the penalties are very harsh if they do decide to persecute).
Then we spent the nightcap on top of a mountain, where Melanie’s 4 wheel drive vehicle, which she is incredibly proud of, went off road to get us to. Here, you can take in the majesty of Muscat. I wish I had more time here. Even just in the city, I wish I could have made it to the Opera House and the Grand Mosque. Both of which looked stunning.
It was clear though that Oman requires more time than these other destinations. I didn’t feel like I did particularly much, nor did I feel like I needed to do any more in Kuwait. I got Dubai’s vibes, and am ready to never return. In Jordan we did two of the top three things, and while Wadi Rum looks great, I’m rather content. Muscat, on the other hand, is barely scratching the surface. Salaleh is the major destination in the south, but a 12 hour drive. Generally inland, is where my Omani friends pointed out I needed to go to if I had more time. The mountains, wadis (swimming hole oases), forests, etc. all a multi hour drive inland, were where Oman’s real beauty is found.
Couple of additional notes. Finally I found dogs in the Middle East. They confirmed it’s quite common for stray animals to be shot / the summer heat makes it difficult to have. They quoted that the summer stays well above 100 degree Fahrenheit… and then had the audacity to invite me back in August for Eid.
It was particularly enlightening as they also gave me some insight on the demographics and economic disparity being Indian Omani’s, and not “true” Omani’s. For all of our racial issues domestically, we do a much better job of integration and inclusion than the Middle East.
Where to Next / Do You Want to Join Me?
Particularly some of these shorter trips. Greenland, Ireland / Northern Ireland, Norway, and Mexico. Very interested in making these happen! Italy, Japan, and New Zealand are my big trips (as in I’d like to take a lot of time to experience them). So I’m ruling them out still until I have more time to dedicate. Maybe I can convince the family the next trip should be on safari. Botswana is looking very intriguing…